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Ve are going to try Design of breakwaters. Thomas Telford Limited, London, 1988. 27 DESIGN OF BREAKWATERS to evaluate the resistance, so that the wave force can be calibrated. 6. The removal of a certain unit can be considered as a particular case of an erosion problem in rivers or channels. 7. The resistance to erosion can be expressed by the critical drag stress, T , which can be evaluated by Lane Equation, 1952 (see ref. C13): TM, = d75 <1> in which d75 is the 7 5 % quantile of unit diameters.

Study Statens of wave Teknisk forces on Videnska- Research C o u n c i l ) . The sup­ PAPER 2: JENSEN A N D JUHL REFERENCES 1. S a n d s t r S m , A a k e , 1 9 7 4 . V a g k r a f t e r p a b l o c k i v a g b r y t a r s l a n t e r (Wave F o r c e s o n B l o c k s o f R u b b l e M o u n d B r e a k w a t e r s ) , in S w e d i s h w i t h s u m m a r y in E n g l i s h . H y d r a u l i c L a b o r a t o r y , R o y a l Ins. , Stockholm, Bulletin N o . 83. 2. Jensen, 0. Juul. A monograph on Rubble Mound Breakwater.

Mass forces can be evaluated by: dU(t) Fm(t) = Cm(t) p V (7) dt in which Cm(t) is a non-dimensional mass coefficient, function of the Reynolds number of the flow, Re, of the flow frequency and the shape of the unit. V is the volume of the unit. dU is the acceleration of the flow. dt 14. Mass forces have the direction of the acceleration. 15. It is assumed that water velocities and accelerations are proportional to the wave particle velocities and accelerations near the structure, which may be evaluated by the wave theories.

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